LEARN ALL ABOUT HAIR EXTENSIONS!
NAME: BRAIDED WEAVE TRACK
Natural hair is braided against the scalp. Wefts of hair are sewn or bonded with glue to the braids
NAME: CROCHETED TRACK
A weaving thread and the natural hair itself are used to crochet stitch the weft directly to the head. This works better for Caucasian hair types. This utilizes an uncommon European stitch technique.
NAME: COLD BOND TRACK
Wefts are bonded directly to the natural hair using a latex based glue.
NAME: CLIP-IN TRACK
Wefts of hair have small clips or combs on the back which clients clip into hair at home. They are to be removed daily to prevent breakage of natural hair.
NAME: TAPE-IN TRACK
Wefts of hair have double sided tape adhesives across the back which clients peel backing off of and stick to hair at home. These are to be worn about 5 days at a time and removed. New tape is applied to the back to reuse.
NAME: DOUBLE WEFTS
Two micro thin wefts are sewn together. Small bits of the clients natural hair are brought through at even points in between the two wefts and sealed to a section of the wefts using a small metal lock or fusion glue chips.
STRAND BY STRAND
A small cluster of hairs with a plastic loop on top is used to thread nartual hair through. It is tied off and the loop is removed. The strand of hairs hang by one thread.
NAME: MICROBRAIDS (BOX BRAIDS)
Small segments of loose hair are braided into segments of natural hair. Long term wear will cause friction breakage to the natural hair.
NAME: PINCH BRAIDING
A piece of weaving thread is added to a small cluster if hairs. The thread and natural hair are braided at the top of the head. The thread is tied around the braid and knotted to hold the hair.
NAME: NON-SURGICAL HAIR TRANSPLANT
About 4 synthetic hairs are tied to one strand of natural hair to create a look of thicker hair at the scalp. Extension hairs shed when each natural hair sheds.
A small segment of the natural hair is inserted through a small cylindrical tube of heat shrink material. A small cluster of extension hair is inserted into the same cylinder, heat is applied. The material grips the outside of the hair shaft and squeezes the added segment to the natural hair. In strong hot or cold enviornments, hair will expand and contract causing slippage and shedding of extension hair.
NAME: LOCKS, MICRO-CYLINDERS, MICROBEADS, MICRORINGS, CLAMPS
A small segment of natural hair and a small segment of extension hair are inserted through a small cylindrical tube of metal. Needle nose pliers are used to clamp the cylinder shut. The material squeezes the added segment to the natural hair. Only aluminum alloy locks should be used. These are hard to find as is most are made from copper which is not pliable and may break hair during removal.
This is one of the most out-dated strand methods as it often results in breakage at time of removal. A cluster of hairs is attached to the same size cluster of your own hair using at wax, polymer or keratin protein glue bond, and heat source. The original (and very outdated) version of this application involves taking loose hair or hair from a weft and rolling glue to the end of the cluster using a wax pot or hot glue gun. This "self-rolling" of bonds should be avoided at all costs. Updates of this method include pre-tipped clusters from distributors. These use a safe low-heat and teflon coated application tool. Self-rolled bonds will shed and cause damage at removal time or if hair clusters are not correctly weight distributed.
NAME: SEAMLESS EXTENSION, SANDWHICH METHOD, SKIN WEFT, INVISIBLE HAIR
This method uses two small strips of hair with a medical grade adhesive betweeen them to sandwhich the natural hair between them and seal to eachother. They are incredibly lightweight and can be used safely on even those with hair loss. They lay smooth to the head without the traditional bumps of extensions. They also easily hide layers. As this method uses small segments instead of small strand clusters, They do not separate or hang stringy as many traditional methods do.
QUALITY OF HAIR
Synthetic hair should be only used for short term or temporary methods. Extension Hair can be separated into 4 basic catagories:
- BAD ~ Hair is known as "double drawn" or "brushed." It is removed from the head and not sorted, resulting in some roots at the top of the cluster and some ends. This causes the cuticle to fish hook together, balling up constantly. This hair should be avoided and is sold at most local supply stores.
- GOOD ~ Hair is usually Asian in origin. This hair is "REMY", "REMI" or "REMIN" meaning it has been carefully sorted and faces in one direction. This hair will last 3-6 months before drying out.
- HIGH ~Hair is East Indian "Temple Hair." It is Virgin Hair with a natural slight body wave when wet. if a light color is being used it has been chemically treated. It is Glossy and has a cuticle similar to european hair types. It will usually last 6 months to 2 years, depending on the wear and care of it. This is the highest quality that most brand names will sell.
- CUSTOM ~ Hair must come straight from a manufacturer to ensure the quality is higher than East Indian. Above Indian, Other types are available but are scarce. They run in the following order: Mongilian virgin, Burma Virgin, Italian, Russian Virgin. Russian Virgin is the top of the line hair and will last 5 years if cared for properly. It does not hold curl and true Russian Virgin hair is always delivered i dark natural colors and is buttery smooth to the touch.
CARE FOR YOUR HAIR
The most important aspect of any hair enhancement service is proper maintenance at home. Some stylists may insist that certain extension methods can last up to 6 months without maintenance, or other methods may be able to "just grow out." This is a biological impossibility at this time in our techniques. This is not true!
The main reason hair enhancement services have a bad reputation and damage hair is because of the widespread nature of this mis-information.
When enhancements are properly maintained, both at home and in the salon, a healthy head will suffer no damage upon proper removal.
Because many stylist make a large profit from initial application, and because maintenance of the service is usually more time consuming and less profitable than the initial application, many establishments do not offer maintenance. Instead they wait until a full head needs to be redone and the client will pay the entire application cost again, often every 3 to 6 months. At this point some damage has usually occurred to the natural hair.
Be aware of any establishment that does not offer you a regular maintenance schedule or tells you that the enhancement method does not require a "fill."
Hair extensions are not nails and maintenance appointments do not "fill" the extension in. Extensions need literally to be reattached at the top of head every 4-8 weeks at the longest. After this time the following biological factors begin to take effect:
On average hair grows .5" per month. When hair is left untouched, at the 6 month mark the bond will be hanging 3" off the head. This tends to be aesthetically disappointing.
On average a person sheds approximately 100 strands of hair a day. When hair is placed in any type of bond, loose hair becomes trapped in these points and is unable to shed. Over time this leads to unequal weight distribution on the natural hair causing breakage and damage. This also will lead to greater matting.
Over time, hair that has naturally been shed becomes entrapped int the bond point and will begin to tangle badly with the fresh growth of hair. Natural hair must be patiently picked out of the bond, usually resulting in breakage or cutting. Maintenance must be done before this matting begins to avoid damage. Extensions may also begin to tangle with each other, so it is required that clients practice good home care to avoid this.
With proper in-salon maintenance a client can wear hair extensions for years. Ideally extensions should be checked and problem areas rotated out or treated every 3-4 weeks. Hair extensions and additions are never truly permanent, no matter what anyone says.
Only allow stylists who are familiar with enhancements to cut them. This can't be stated firmly enough. It is very easy to cut the bulk out of an enhancement, leaving a client with a destroyed and stringy style. Ask for examples of a stylists work before letting them cut your new hair. A good specialist should be capable of cutting and coloring your new hair themselves if you wish, although there may be an extra fee.
Most coloring and perming should be avoided completely unless the hair is highest quality as it causes excessive dryness.
Wait 48 hours before washing your hair, after any application, to make sure bonding agents have fully set. This includes the hours following maintenance appointments.
Never use circular motions when washing, as this will cause hair to tangle.
Use a leave-in silicone based smoothing drop in damp hair every time you wash. Use only from the ponytail section down. If your extension brand makes their own product line to work in conjunction with their hair, use this. In these cases the product's chemist has formulated the product to not disrupt the hold of the bond.
Always use lukewarm water.
When using a towel, pat hair dry, never rub with a towel.
Always wash hair following salt water, chlorine or heavy sweatin,g as this can cause damage to your enhancement if left in the hair. Leaving oily products in the hair for long might travel to the bond pointand lead to slipping of the extension. This included sweat left in the hair.
You should be able to wash everyday as normal or as needed, however, less frequent the washing the easier the wear of you new hair will be.
The Single most important part of at home maintenance is the 100% soft bristle boar hair brush or plastic boar hair. Any other type of brush or comb will catch at your bond point and cause breakage or damage to the natural hair and enhancement. A soft hair brush can be pressed all the way to the scalp. These brushes help to catch oils from the scalp and deposit them throughout dry enhancement hair, They also help to remove build-up from the scalp that develops from not being able to wash as thoroughly. This can cut down on an itchy scalp. Boar brushes remove some of the shed hairs that may result in mattes over time and they separate strands from matting in strand by strand methods.
To use: Clip the hair up in sections and brush completely through the head at least two times per day. Once in the morning and once before bed. Always do this after washing the hair once its 75% dry.
Avoid direct heat on any bond! Direct high heat can weaken hold. A hairdryer can be used, but keep it 10"-12" from the head. All human hair can be curled, flat iron, ect as normal. Synthetic CAN NOT. Excessive styling or heat will dry out your hair and shorten the hairs wear life. Use styling products through the hair, never at the scalp.
~CARE WHILE SLEEPING
A satin pillow case causes less friction. Always place hair into two braids or small ponytails while you sleep. This should also be done any time you are in a windy environment, or anytime the hair is at risk of friction or tangling.
Copyright, 2001-2012 Annsimone Mickelberry. All rights reserved.
This page is for informational purpose only.